DURHAM

 Durham is one of England's most memorable small cities - primarily for its enormous cathedral. The country's finest piece of ecclesiastical Norman architecture erupts out of thickly wooded banks on a bend of the Wear River. Largely traffic-free lanes around the peninsula, riverside paths and, in summer, river cruises and rowing boats for rent, add to the city's appeal. Durham University is the third oldest and most prestigoius in England, after Oxford and Cambridge.

 The bulk of the present day cathedral was built between 1093 and 1133, in unadulterated Norman style, most tangible in the nave's colossal pillars still incized with chevron patterns. The church's sheer size was made possible by the groundbreaking use of rib vaulting and pointed arches. It dominates the view from the water, the town, the railroad and the countryside for miles around.