DURHAM

 Durham is one of England's most memorable small cities - primarily for its enormous cathedral. The country's finest piece of ecclesiastical Norman architecture erupts out of thickly wooded banks on a bend of the Wear River. Largely traffic-free lanes around the peninsula, riverside paths and, in summer, river cruises and rowing boats for rent, add to the city's appeal. Durham University is the third oldest and most prestigoius in England, after Oxford and Cambridge.

 The bulk of the present day cathedral was built between 1093 and 1133, in unadulterated Norman style, most tangible in the nave's colossal pillars still incized with chevron patterns. The church's sheer size was made possible by the groundbreaking use of rib vaulting and pointed arches. It dominates the view from the water, the town, the railroad and the countryside for miles around.

ISLES OF SCILLY

 The archipelago of the Scilly Isles, 28 miles west of Land's End, numbers around 150 islands, but only five are inhabited by people; many others are home to colonies of seals and seabirds. These share a mild yet windbeaten climate, lovely white beaches, clean, yet chilly seas, much birdlife and a profusion of flowers, both wild and commercially grown daffodils and narcissi. Otherwise, they are distinctively individual.

Porthcressa Bay, St. Mary's, Isles of Scilly

 

Most people live on St. Mary's at up to 3 miles wide the largest island. Passenger launches depart for the other island from the little capital, Hugh Town. Star Castle was built in Tudor times against the Spanish and can be explored. Paths allow to follow the bays and headlands of the beautiful coastline - Peninnis Head is the most dramatic feature - and to search out the many prehistoric burial chambers in the interior.

SUFFOLK COAST

 The Suffolk coastline has plenty of sleepy, old-warm charm. Its shingle beaches, low cliffs and marshes fight a constant battle with the sea's eroding power. The 40-mile Suffolk Heritage Coast, which wanders northward from Felixstowe up to Kessingland, is one of the most unspoiled shorelines in the country. The lower part of the coast is the most impressive; however, some of the loveliest towns and villages, such as Dedham and the older part of Flatford, are inland.

OULTON BROAD *  FELIXSTOWE
LOWESTOFT * KESSINGLAND

  

The best way to experience the countryside around here is to be willing to get lost along its tiny, ancient back-roads. Try to avoid the coastal area between Lowestoft and Great Yarmouth; it has little to offer but run-down beach resorts.

Sandy Lowestoft combines a mainstream seaside resort with a large, commercial fishing port. There are guided tours of the fish markets and docks in summer.

WINDSOR

 The twin towns of Windsor and Eton, facing each other across the Thames, are synonymous with two great bastions of English privilege: Windsor Castle and Eton College. Towering above the pleasant town of Windsor, Windsor Castle has been inhabited by royalty since William the Conqueror's time and has grown to be the largest lived-in fortress in the world. Its most outstanding building is St. George's Chapel, one of the finest examples of Perpendicular architecture in existence.

Windsor, the Norman Gate

 

Go across the Thames River by Windsor Bridge to Eton College, founded by Henry VI in 1440. Britain's most famous and exclusive school, where boys wear tail coats and wing collars, has spawned 20 prime ministers. Like many private fee-paying schools in England, it is paradoxically called a "public" school.

HENLEY-ON-THAMES

Henley-on-Thames, set on a mile-long stretch of the Thames, is famous for its regatta, founded in 1839 and held every year in early July. At regatta times the banks are lined with hospitality tents and well-dressed spectators parade up and down. The river is also the focus for another annual event swan-upping, in late July. For 800 years the cygnets born to swans on the Thames have been caught and marked to distinguish their ownership.

 

Henley itself, which grew itself around a 12th-century river crossing, has a very attractive and compact town center with lots of half-timbered or soft-toned brick buildings of the 15th to 18th centuries. Look too for the flint and stone-checked 16th-century tower of St. Mary's Church, and the adjoining 15th-century Chantry House, timber-framed with jettied upper floors.

TYNE AND WEAR

 The landscape of Tyne and Wear is dominated by the River Tyne and River Wear characterized by the river bridges, including the icon Tyne Bridge, and the modern Millennium Bridge and complemented by green belts around the main conurbations. The main populations are centred in the cities of Newcastle upon Tyne, Sunderland, Gateshead, South Shields and Tynemouth.

 Sunderland * Tyne and Wear * South Shields
Cullercoats * Whitley Bay * North Shields

  

For a long time a great coal-producing center and worldleader in shipbuilding and engineering, Newcastle-upon-Tyne has suffered in the post-industrial age. First impressions are not promising, yet the city has a distinctive, austere beauty, while its heavily-accented citizens, called "Geordies", seem to have a permanent twinkle in their eye. Six great bridges span the Tyne. The city took its name from the "new castle" built in 1080; a later Norman keep can still be seen.

WELLS

 England’s smallest cathedral city, with a population of 10,000, lies at the foot of the Mendip Hills. Many believe the 800-year-old tiny cathedral of this Somerset city to be the most beautiful in England. Its outstanding feature is its west front, a huge screen adorned with some 300 angels, saints and kings. This unparalleled concentration of medieval sculpture would have looked even more spectacular at the time, when it was vividly painted.

Market Place and Cathedral

 

 In the surrounding moat, by the drawbridge, swans traditionally rang a bell with their beaks at feeding time. Among Wells' handsome streets of  old limestone houses, Vicar's Close is the pick of the bunch, cobbled and lined with 14-century cottages in which the clergy used to live. Wells Market Place has been a focal point of the City over the ages and still is today with a twice weekly market on Wednesday and Saturday selling local produce and goods.

 

LINCOLN

 With little else of outstanding interest in Lincolnshire, you'll probably have to travel out of your way to reach the small, backwater city of Lincoln. But you'll be rewarded by one of England's most splendid cathedrals, its colossal towers soaring above the flat countryside. Historic Lincoln occupies the uphill part of the city, above and separate from the modern and commercial center. At the top of Steep Hill, on one side of the square called Castle Hill, stands the Norman castle. The other side of the square leads to the west front of the cathedral, breathtaking for its size and abundance of arcading. Though part of the facade is Norman, the bulk of the church is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture.

 

For those fancying some retail therapy, Lincoln offers a great selection of shops. The city has a mixture of high street favorites and independent boutiques. Uphill Lincoln and the Bailgate is home to several antiques shops and the quaint cobbled streets are ideal for a leisurely afternoon window shopping.

Visit Lincoln, the beautiful historic city full of heritage and culture.

BIRMINGHAM

 Birmingham, Britain's largest city after London, cannot be called beautiful; wrecked by city "planners" of the mid-20th century, it is a mess of flyover roads, industrial parks and sprawling suburbs. But it also has more canals than Venice (created as an early mass-transport system at the height of the Industrial Revolution in the late 18th and early 19th centuries) and a few splendid Victorian buildings, the legacy of its 19th-century wealth and industrial importance. Birmingham is part of an extensive canal network, a good escape from the jungle of roads and intersections.

 

The Bull Ring * Council House * New Street

 At Bournville, another major industry opens its doors to visitors: Cadbury World offers the chance to look around a chocolate factory established by the Cadbury family during the 19th century. While in Birmingham, do not pass up a chance to hear the top-quality City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra in its home at the Symphony Hall.

DOVER

     The Gateway to England

 To millions of vacationers, Dover is no more than a large, workaday port below white cliffs which constitute an evocative first and last sight of Britain. While wartime bombs deprived the town of much charm, it has been the most significant cross-Channel port since Roman times and there are a number of interesting historical sights. Magnificent Dover Castle looks out to France, just 17 miles away and easily visible on a clear day. Its 12th-century keep is surrounded by Victorian barracks and ramparts. Within the castle walls is the shell of the pharos, a Roman lighthouse used as a bell tower.

 

Castle from Market Square * The Beach * The White Cliffs of Dover

 

Plunging hundreds of feet into the sea, Dover’s chalk-white cliffs are an inspirational site and a symbol of England. They stay white because of the natural process of erosion. Because of this, you must be cautious when walking along the cliffs — experts recommend staying at least 20 feet from the edge. Cliffs has 5 miles of walking trails with some spectacular views.

PLYMOUTH

Devon’s largest city has long been linked with England’s commercial and maritime history. Plymouth actually means "the navy", and special navy days are held every other year in August. Its vast natural harbor has played a significant role in Britain's maritime affairs. Sir Francis Drake sailed from Plymouth to defeat the Spanish Armada. Bomb damage during World War II decimated the city, but the cobbled streets and timber-framed  houses of an old district called the Barbican, escaped damage. The Merchant's House is a particular fine timber building and a local museum. The promenade of the Hoe commands the best views over the nautical comings and goings in Plymouth Sound. Alongside are an excellent aquarium, a vast 17th-century citadel and Plymouth Dome, a high-tech introduction to the city.

Armada Way, Plymouth, Devon

Britain's Ocean City

NOTTINGHAM

 Don't be seduced by tales of Robin Hood and the Sheriff of Nottingham: Nottingham today is a busy, industrial city. Its Norman castle has virtually disappeared, replaced by a much later mansion housing a good museum and art gallery. In the 18th century, Nottingham expanded rapidly as a lace-making center, and the industry flourishes to this day. Red-brick Victorian warehouses at the Lace Market are redolent of the city's past. Back above ground, the city centre is largely pedestrianised and compact, making Nottingham perfect for relaxed strolling, sight-seeing, and shopping.

Robin Hood * Council House * View from Castle Terrace* University

Sherwood Forest is a pale shadow of its former self. However, in the Sherwood Forest Country Park, you can wander among old oaks and be entertained in the visitor center with fanciful legends connected with the ever-popular philantropic outlaw. Clumber Park, further north, has a 4,000 acres of park and woodland.

Visit Nottingham

NORWICH

 

City of Stories

Overlooked by most tourists, this compact city, made rich in the Middle Ages by the wool trade, has enough sightseeing to fill a long weekend, as well as interesting shopping (especially along St. Benedict's Street), excellent restaurants, and a vibrant arts scene due, in part, to the presence of the University of East Anglia. Exploration naturally starts at the Market Place, permanently covered by the striped awnings of a large, open-air market.

 THE GUILDHALL AND GARDEN OF REMEMBRANCE

All around lie a host of flint-faced churches (32 medieval churches), as well as medieval streets such a cobbled Elm Hill, lined with overhanging and brightly plastered buildings. But the top sight has to be the cathedral, which features a magnificent display of over 1,000 multicolored roof bosses depicting dramatic scenes in miniature along its grand nave and around its cloisters. The large, serene cathedral close, with elegant Georgian houses, feels like a well-kept village.

ST JOHN'S CHURCH AND ST GILES STREET

Norwich has no shortage of museums. The largest, in the castle complex, excels in its enormous teapot collection and galleries of works by John Crome and John Sell Cotman, outstanding landscape artists of the well-respected Norwich School. Also enjoyable are the Bridewell Museum, a nostalgic look at Norwich's industries, and Stranger's Hall, a rambling, old merchant's house.

VisitNorwich: The City of Stories

BEADNELL

Beadnell is a small village set at the end of a sheltered, horseshoe-shaped beach called Beadnell Bay. This sweeping crescent of beach is fun for everyone, with golden sand perfect for sand castle building, beach cricket, and water sports. With its protected waters and stunning beach, Beadnell is a watersports paradise.

The harbour walls of Beadnell were built in the 1790's and the lime kilns of that date still remain. Stretching from the harbour is the long golden sweep of Beadnell bay with the ruined Dunstanburgh Castle in the distance. This sheltered bay makes an ideal location for some of the best sailing and wind surfing on the Northumberland coast. The village provides a range of pubs and cafes. There is an historic church dedicated to St Ebba. The church is popular with local residents and holds many memorials to local families.

 

 BEADNELL HARBOUR

 

The entrance to Beadnell harbour actually faces west making it the only west-facing on the east coast of England. This combination of charm and accessibility makes Beadnell a popular holiday village on the north east coast. Walkers and ramblers will enjoy visiting Beadnell, it has miles of perfect walking routes along the beautiful coastline.

 

Received from Thomas Goatherd, Northamptonshire

YORKSHIRE COAST

 A hauntingly beautiful region, Yorkshire is the largest of England’s historic counties (and its proud inhabitants would say it’s the only one worth visiting). The coastline of the North York Moors offers a dramatic view of spectacular white cliffs covered in pink heather, which plummet down to the dark sea hundreds of feet below. Cottages pile on top of each other in a glorious jumble round the tiny harbor of Staithes. Runswick Bay, also a fishing  village, is more ordered in its red-roofed, white-washed , cliff-clinging cottages above a fine, sandy beach. 

Bridlington * Staithes * Whitby
Robin Hood's Bay * Runswick Bay * Thornwick Bay

In precarious clifftop site with steep flights of steps and narrow passages, Robin Hood's Bay is yet another lovely fishing village. Though associations with the famous outlaw are tenuous, smuggling stories are readily authenticated. Low tide reveals vast sand, rock-pools and fossils. A Norwegian whalebone arch reminds you that Whitby was once an important whaling centre; now interest lies in the old town on the east side of the Esk River, with tea and antique stores, and jewelers selling the gemstone jet.
 

EXMOOR

 Exmoor, England's smallest national park, packs in a great variety of scenery, from towering cliffs along the coast, to lush, wooded combes riven by sparkling streams, to gentle farmland in the east and wilder moorland in the center and south. The heathland of Exmoor starts abruptly at around 1,000 feet above  sea level, leaving behind lush wooded valleys and productive farmland well sheltered from the prevailing westerly winds. You'll be very lucky to spot any of the resident red deer, but you'll certainly meet a few hardy, dun-colored Exmoor ponies on your travels. To set the scene, you might want to read R.D. Blackmore's historical novel, Lorna Doone, based on stories about a group of 17-th century outlaws who lived in a beautiful part of the park now commonly known as  Doone County.

LORNA DOONE FARM, EXMOOR,  NORTH DEVON

Received from Thomas, Northamptonshire

SPALDING

Spalding is a bustling Georgian Market Town set around the picturesque River Welland and situated within the South Lincolnshire Fens, approximately 105 miles north of London. The settlement’s name is derived from an Anglian tribe, the Spaldingas, who settled in the area during the 6th century. Surrounded by dikes and streams and counting seven bridges in its town center, it has a Dutch feel, reinforced by tulip fields in Springfield Gardens and its Flower Parade in early May. The parade celebrated the region’s vast tulip production and the cultural links between the Fens and the landscape and people of South Holland. Spalding has a surplus of small but worthwhile attractions, like Britain’s tallest windmill, an authentic blacksmith’s forge and Medieval churches. It is quite a special part of Lincolnshire and most definitely worth visiting numerous times.

SPRINGFIELDS GARDENS

Received from Thomas, Northamptonshire

COTSWOLD

 Marked by rolling uplands, green fields, and limestone cottages with prim flower beds, the Cotswolds, 100 miles west of London, make a peaceful getaway. The towns and villages set around the Cotswold escarpment - a swath of golden, creamy or gray-colored stone, stretching from Stratford-upon-Avon south west to Cirencester and beyond - owe their beauty to sheep, or rather, the wool on their backs. The wealth created by the wool industry built stately, large-windowed, light-filled churches in every town and country parish. The Cotswolds region is justly famous for tranquil, stone-built villages.  There’s little to do in idyllic villages, but that’s the point. Exquisite gardens and stately homes add further charm.

 

COTSWOLD COUNTRYSIDE, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

 

 

Received from Thomas Goatherd

HASTINGS

In the 19th century Hastings became one of England’s most popular spa resorts. Hastings is a mix of fishing port and unpretentious resort. Fishermen winch their boats onto the shingle beach below tall black sheds called deezes, where their nets are stored. Behind, weatherboard houses on narrow alleys characterize the old town.  A Victorian funicular railway takes you up to fragmentary ruins of a massive castle built by William, where the events of the Norman invasion unfold in a fake siege tent in The Story of 1066. The animated figures of the Smugglers' Adventure, set in caves once used for storing contraband, are also entertaining. The adjoining Regency resort of St. Leonards is a must for those with a fondness for backstreet antique shops. 

 

 

FISHING BOATS AT HASTINGS, EAST SUSSEX

 

Tall Victorian row houses painted in lemony hues still cover the cliffs around the deep blue sea, and the views from the hilltops are extraordinary. The Old Town, on the east side of the city, offers a glimpse into the city’s 16th-century past. Hastings has been through difficult times in recent decades, and the town developed a reputation as a rough place. It’s handsome, if tattered, and the seafront has all the usual English accoutrements—fish-and-chips stands, candy stores, shops selling junk, miniature golf, and rocky beaches that stretch for miles.

 

Received from Thomas Goatherd

 

IRONBRIDGE

Here in the wooden gorge of the Severn River, the industrial Revolution was born in 1709 when Abraham Darby discovered that by smelting iron ore with coke instead of charcoal, iron could be mass-produced. The world's first iron bridge (1779)is just one of the Ironbridge Gorge Museum's sights, which are spread over six square miles; buses run between sites in the summer months. In the western part of the gorge, near the bridge, is the Museum of the River, in a warehouse built to store the Coalbrookdale Company's iron products. Darby's actual furnace is on show at the Museum of Iron, which explains the history of iron-making and of the Coalbrookdale Company.

The iron bridge at Coalbrookdale is surprisingly elegant and delicate-looking, and was the first bridge in the world to be constructed of iron

Received from Thomas Goatherd